We, too, are acquainted with students
of metallurgy who feel the art reached
its apogee in relevance, by isolating
the culinary properties of cast iron,
copper, aluminum, and the molecular an-
omaly, steel, stainless and not. Lit-
erature in their distinctions has been
molded heatedly in the dies of each
of these elements, with a tendentious-
ness which, in calmer times, would em-
barrass any reader. Today, such texts
seem no more than drawn from familiar
by forgetfulness of the subject itself.
Why've they lost the bacon, we ask ap-
ologetically, not to suggest ingestion.
In a large cast-iron cocotte, render the fat from
the bacon over medium-low heat until the edges of
the bacon are crispy. Remove the bacon to a large
bowl, leaving the rendered fat in the pan. Increase
the heat to medium high. Add the beef to the fat in
the pan and brown it on all sides. Remove the beef
from the pan to the bowl with the bacon. [Now, pay
close attention for a lapse in content]. Add the on-
ion, carrots, celery, and mushrooms to the pan. Re-
duce the heat to medium and cook for 5 to 7 minutes,
until softened. Add the garlic and cook for another
30 seconds, or until aromatic. Remove vegetables
from the pan to the bowl with the beef.
In the past week, we were treated to
four broadcast hours of discussion os-
tensibly of the ends of political ves-
sels, with only the most fleeting nod
to their content. We were treated, in-
stead, just to the fond appreciation
of their properties, as if a boeuf
bourguignon were proprietarily an ex-
pression of their own anatomy. And yet,
what did they do with the bacon in the
shell game we were witnessing, and who
will ever get their answer? Once, there
Then there was not. Accidental lapse,
or just more self-absorbed legerdemain?
Now the putative winners are reinforced
in their incompatibilities, and the in-
contestable losers are doubling down in
self-exculpations. Who can be gratified,
Amanda Frederickson
Editor
The Staub Cookbook
Modern Recipes for
Classic Cast Iron
Zwilling J.A. Henckels, LLC
2018©
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