Here you will find a poor but beau-
tifully exposed, very stony, reddish
soil of Bathonian origin on a rocky
base, on quite a definite slope fac-
ing to the southeast. It is the light-
ness of the soil throughout the Volnay
vineyards that largely contributes to
the delicacy and finesse of this com-
mune's wines.
Although I have argued here, before, that taste is a human right, it isn't from care that I haven't rejected the reality that it can be educated, with all the risks of coercion that process can inflict. It's in weather such as this, in backlighting of earlier days like this, that I look with gratitude upon the qualities of a wine which is less probable to discover today, without a push such as I was given as a student, and the house red wine was from an appellation not then expensive, also not hotly flogged by hired authorities. We don't experience those conditions in these times, but I do not regard them as indispensable to loving an extraordinary treasure for itself. I apologize as much for speaking its name, as for withholding it. 
Clive Coates
The Wines of France
Revised Edition
Wine Appreciation Guild
1999©
i Alexander McQueen
Bazaar UK
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