Thursday, July 25, 2013

Cranky aubergines

Mme Reid-Gaillard writes
the indispensable kitchen
garden blog referenced in
Context, and captures the
volatility of the season 
as few have done, in her 

    You always blame the 
weather for the fact that 
your aubergines are a few 
centimeters shorter than 
the neighbors, your hot 
peppers have only started 
flowering or your tomatoes 
persist on remaining green. 
It's a gardeners preroga-
tive to moan!

I don't think one could put dismay with one's aubergines any more poignantly than she has done, especially in her adoption of the comparative frame of reference; and with the season now so advanced upon its evanescent trajectory, who can afford to wait for hot peppers to reach veraison? This is horticultural cruelty at its nakedest imperviousness to aspiration, to say nothing of good works and good will. Nor is this ultimately a matter so much of knowing that somewhere a neighbor is proffering a plusher aubergine, as it is a crisis of underripening, per se, in which the very shade of the fruit proclaims it, never mind its scale. Moan? Rage, rather, against the persistence of tart hues.

One feels an almost natural 
dread of tribal culling in 
any botanical failure, and
while she manages to keep
it together with resilient
culinary wit, I know there
are many of us whose first
recourse might be to our
usual suspects, the gods.
I, for my part, have too
much respect for the pow-
er of prayer, and can ill
afford an overcorrection,
of clumsy side effects.

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