Friday, August 16, 2013

Suppose it were Friday lxxv: Grille the beach

  But, please:
  don't try to
  persuade me,
  cumin can be
  part of this.

  Is the epidemiology of
  contemporary cuisine
  going to identify as
  Patient Zero, the pro-
  miscuous proliferation
  of restaurants by Jean-
  Georges Vongerichten,
  witty apostle of this
  impertinent herb as
  the touchstone of chic
  consumption? Who knew,
  or who forgot, that it
  was possible to make a
  contribution to viti-
  cultural history, by im-
  porting phylloxera to
  the Old World (annihil-
  ating millions of acres
  of vines) - what fun
  might think it ravish-
  ingly bright to pair
  cumin with crab.

      Thus, can you stand it, 
      sauce for the goose is
      no longer great merely
      with the gander, but
      "perfect," with a crab
      salad already torn be-
      tween basil and mango,
      tomato and sherry, and
      with "any light appe-
      tizer." You and I may
      be excused, I hope, if
      an Elizabethan auto da
      might hold more ap-
      peal, and certainly as
      an Introit for any well
      structured repast.

Jean-Georges Vongerichten
Mark Bittman
  Cooking at Home with
  a Four-Star Chef
Broadway Books, 1998©

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