But, please:
don't try to
persuade me,
cumin can be
part of this.
Is the epidemiology of
contemporary cuisine
going to identify as
Patient Zero, the pro-
miscuous proliferation
of restaurants by Jean-
Georges Vongerichten,
witty apostle of this
impertinent herb as
the touchstone of chic
consumption? Who knew,
or who forgot, that it
was possible to make a
contribution to viti-
cultural history, by im-
porting phylloxera to
the Old World (annihil-
ating millions of acres
of vines) - what fun -
might think it ravish-
ingly bright to pair
cumin with crab.
Thus, can you stand it,
sauce for the goose is
no longer great merely
with the gander, but
"perfect," with a crab
salad already torn be-
tween basil and mango,
tomato and sherry, and
with "any light appe-
tizer." You and I may
be excused, I hope, if
an Elizabethan auto da
fé might hold more ap-
peal, and certainly as
an Introit for any well
structured repast.
contemporary cuisine
going to identify as
Patient Zero, the pro-
miscuous proliferation
of restaurants by Jean-
Georges Vongerichten,
witty apostle of this
impertinent herb as
the touchstone of chic
consumption? Who knew,
or who forgot, that it
was possible to make a
contribution to viti-
cultural history, by im-
porting phylloxera to
the Old World (annihil-
ating millions of acres
of vines) - what fun -
might think it ravish-
ingly bright to pair
cumin with crab.
sauce for the goose is
no longer great merely
with the gander, but
"perfect," with a crab
salad already torn be-
tween basil and mango,
tomato and sherry, and
with "any light appe-
tizer." You and I may
be excused, I hope, if
an Elizabethan auto da
fé might hold more ap-
peal, and certainly as
an Introit for any well
structured repast.
Jean-Georges Vongerichten
Mark Bittman
Jean-Georges
Cooking at Home with
a Four-Star Chef
Broadway Books, 1998©
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