Oh, heavens, yes, I'm with
you. One signs up for the
seminar on canopy manage-
ment, only to hear the lec-
turer claim that it's all
about leaf pulling and the
ventilation of clusters.
And what ever became of tan-
nic grip, one should like to
know; extraction, and length
of finish? Tidiness may be a
mode of godliness, but are
they the same thing?
the unpresentable, the more that it escalates into the mystical. An ac-
quired neurosis is its constantly
pressing touchstone (if you see what
I mean), and consensual myth becomes
its dreary blight. Friends have an-
ticipated that I'd touch upon this,
since the launch of the page; people,
simply, with whom I've dined in the
exploration of wines.
in focus upon the hoary myths
of wine. That subject is the
human being by whom and for
whom the transfiguration of
fruit has been undertaken and,
yes, refined. And that is a
most consuming discussion,
yet after Virgil, almost un-
avoidably egotistical to re-
open. We have lived with the
fundamental text for more
than 2000 years. We are in no
position to say, science has
failed us. The problem of in-
articulate wine is not in its
stars or in its ground; it's
in the scientist, among whom
no lover of wine is exempted,
as it is up to him to complete
the gesture that it is. How he
will is how he does.
La Fleur '66
scan by Laurent
Cabernet Franc in 2013
grown by Eric Chevalier
photo Kermit Lynch
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