Friday, November 15, 2013

Friday tidyings

 Oh, heavens, yes, 
I'm with 
 you. One signs up for the
 seminar on canopy manage-
 ment, only to hear the lec-
 turer claim that it's all 
 about leaf pulling and the
 ventilation of clusters. 
 And what ever became of tan-
 nic grip, one should like to
 know; extraction, and length 
 of finish? Tidiness may be a 
 mode of godliness, but are 
 they the same thing?

The language of oenological criticism approaches the unreadable, much less 
the unpresentable, the more that it escalates into the mystical. An ac-
quired neurosis is its constantly 
pressing touchstone (if you see what 
I mean), and consensual myth becomes 
its dreary blight. Friends have an-
ticipated that I'd touch upon this, 
since the launch of the page; people, 
simply, with whom I've dined in the
exploration of wines. 

But the subject is switched,
in focus upon the hoary myths
of wine. That subject is the
human being by whom and for
whom the transfiguration of
fruit has been undertaken and,
yes, refined. And that is a
most consuming discussion, 
yet after Virgil, almost un-
avoidably egotistical to re-
open. We have lived with the
fundamental text for more
than 2000 years. We are in no
position to say, science has
failed us. The problem of in-
articulate wine is not in its
stars or in its ground; it's
in the scientist, among whom
no lover of wine is exempted,
as it is up to him to complete
the gesture that it is. How he
will is how he does.

La Fleur '66
  scan by Laurent

Cabernet Franc in 2013
  grown by Eric Chevalier 
  photo Kermit Lynch

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