The fate of our more elegant red wine grapes - Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc - to endure neglect in Summer was early recognised to be not only an injustice to them but unendurable by their friends; whence, it was discovered that a timely reclamation of the blush of their skins would wring an agreable extract of their intensity in warm weather. For years, now, the Champagnes of Billecart-Salmon have been unavailable in Virginia; and their recent restoration to our shelf could not have come too soon, to respond to the predicament of the furnace at our borders' core, Richmond. The non-vintage rosé from Billecart (a good marriage for Mlle Salmon), a classic in the saignée transformation of the suavity of Pinot Noir, might respond to our estival sentimentality in Autumn, but to necessity when it's hot.
Billecart-Salmon
Mareuil-sur-Ay
1818
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