Tuesday, April 3, 2018


The semillon grape is the foundation
for a wine, Sauternes, one would only
waste if approached in its first 20
years. Skillfully handled on the vine
to achieve a trace of noble rot, it is
harvested cluster by cluster, in sev-
eral passes. This trial by patience is
reflected in its palate in maturity,
in intonations of earth, season, fruit,
and a longevity of depth and radiance
on which it is absurd to cast a price.
Its pitiably small supply, therefore,
must be reserved en primeur if ever
it is to be savored, with one's only
warranty the reputation of the house.


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