Sunday, November 25, 2018

Wine routes of Iberia, 2nd ed.

The half-life of meticulous scholarship,
when devoted now to the regions hereto-
fore praised for sustaining a distinctive
form of life -- as opposed, say, to the
American South's fetish for a way of life
-- has shrunk perceptibly under the novel
strain of climate adjustments, almost as
unforeseen as the transformation of Chic-
ago under the pressures of Jim Crow, asy-
lum seekers fleeing sharecropping's desert
for shelter in blue collars. There are e-
even those who say, Honduras is going out
of business under terror's pre-emption of
drought and rising sea levels. But have
these Cassandras reckoned with our Little
Father's genius for slamming the door, and
discounting the price of military hardware
to suppress the locals in situ? I fear not.

Now the chaos written on the vine of Iber-
ian viticulture has its reverberations a-
cross the vinous continent, as growers
scurry to plant varietals in spontaneous-
ly misplaced habitats, and investigate
the higher predictability in bottling Co-
ca-Cola. So much for the antiquated "chât-
eau" system, and on to the conglomerate's
dispassionate virtuosity with synthetics.

Is it the fault, strictly speaking, of a
Gamay to take on the attributes of Cab-
ernet Sauvignon under rising heat levels
and higher winds? One might as well insist
that it's the fault of an orphan, to be
suckled by wolves. Can Rome turn on a dime?

Joan Miró
Blue II
  [from a triptych]

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